Peat, mizunara and a heritage barley: Suntory’s new whiskies

Remember the time — the years before the pandemic — when Japanese whisky fans were lamenting about the elusiveness of the Yamazaki 18 Year Old, one of Suntory’s flagship whiskies? Maybe you were part of that camp; you found yourself trundling into duty-free in some airport, your jetlagged mind suddenly invigorated by the task of looking out for that golden potion. Unless you got lucky, you usually left empty handed.
Since then, the craze has died down. Casual observers may point to the pandemic and closed borders, which meant few could embark on whisky hunts in Japan or elsewhere — even if the online marketplace provided some (possibly dubious) options — as well as the eye-watering prices of the Yamazaki 18 Year Old.
Suntory has had a hand to play in this diversion as well. Over the years, it has introduced non-age statement whiskies, moving the conversation and obsession away from their flagship age-statement whiskies. Along the way, it also released some limited-edition bottles that showcased an experimental spirit, such as the Yamazaki Bordeaux Wine Cask in 2020, and the Tsukuriwake selection of four whiskies, which was launched in 2020 and 2022 in Japan and the international market respectively.
The Tsukuriwake series, which explores diverse whisky-making techniques, skipped a release last year but launched its 2024 edition in Singapore in July. It’s anyone’s guess if this series would turn into a regular biannual offering (Suntory has stated it has no plans to do so at this point). While the 2022 edition showcased non-aged statement whiskies matured in various casks like puncheons and mizunara oak, the 2024 collection offers a mix of non-age statement and age statement whiskies, a selection that should please fans who have been looking out for age-only releases.
CNA Luxury tasted the new whiskies over a whisky-pairing dinner at Takayama, an omakase restaurant.
A NEW APPROACH TO FAMILIAR FLAVOURS
The Tsukuriwake 2024’s age statement whiskies — the Yamazaki 18 Year Old Mizunara and the mildly smoky Hakushu 18 Year Old Peated Malt — were actually launched last year for Suntory’s 100th anniversary. Because of their popularity among consumers, they were included in this year’s Tsukuriwake series.
Followers of Yamazaki whisky would remember that the Yamazaki 18 Year Old Mizunara first made an appearance in Singapore in 2017 (only 5,000 bottles were available globally then). When asked if the 2017 and the Tsukuriwake edition were of the same release, Suntory did not elaborate, noting only that the latter has a richer flavour and sweetness than the former, “thanks to a longer maturation”.
The Yamazaki 18 Year Old Mizunara has notes of spices, incense, orange peel, and dried coconut; a rich profile shaped by its communion with mizunara. The Japanese oak, a permeable wood from Hokkaido, is a precious commodity; its harvesting is heavily controlled by the Japanese government. Only mizunara that is more than 200 years old can be used for ageing spirits; Suntory opts for mizunara that is at least 250 years old.
Andrew Pang, Suntory’s regional brand ambassador for Southeast Asia, said that out of the 1.2 million barrels in Suntory’s warehouses, less than one per cent of them are Mizunara barrels.
The series’ non-age statement whiskies — the Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt and the Yamazaki Golden Promise — reflect the Tsukuriwake 2024’s focus on ingredient selection.
Islay peated malt is known for its distinctive softness, a characteristic that Suntory is keen to pair with Yamazaki’s gentle water quality. The Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt is delicate on the palate, offering a soft mouthfeel with touches of brown sugar, sea spray, and orange citrus.
The Yamazaki Golden Promise, which has an average age of 14 years, refers to the name of the barley sourced from Scotland. Between the 1960s and 1980s, the barley, which could withstand harsh climates, was widely cultivated but is now grown in small amounts. Chances are you’d have sipped a whisky made with some Golden Promise, too: The barley forms the base of the Yamazaki 12 Year Old. Suntory has declined to reveal the percentage of the Golden Promise used in the 12 Year Old, though.
Pang noted that Suntory has used the Golden Promise barley since 2009. “It balances and stabilises the Yamazaki profile,” he said. The eponymous Yamazaki edition, which is aged in American oak, is made from 100 percent Golden Promise barley and builds on the classic Yamazaki taste by offering a creamier character, he added.
We found the round, lush and slightly tropical Yamazaki Golden Promise to be a delightful sip. It is a likely crowd-pleaser, especially among those who already enjoy Yamazaki’s flagship whiskies.
During our dinner, the Yamazaki Golden Promise and the Hakushu 18 Year Old Peated Malt were our favourites; we kept returning to the pair over the course of our meal. The peated libation from Hakushu, with its wispy smokiness, worked especially well with the foie gras and wagyu dishes by accentuating their rich flavours.
The Tsukuriwake 2024 series is priced at S$6,320 for a set of four bottles. Interested buyers please email beamsuntory [at] upcyclecomms.com
Individual bottles are available for purchase only at Lotte Duty Free at Changi Airport (Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt and Yamazaki Golden Promise, S$780 each; Yamazaki 18 Year Old Mizunara, S$2,680; Hakushu 18 Year Old Peated Malt, S$2,080)